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十八世纪宫廷服饰与玛丽•安托瓦内特18thcenturycourtcostumeandMarie-Antoinette发布时间：2012-04-24文章出自：blog.catherinedelors.comIsawtheCourtPompandRoyalCeremonyexhibitionatVersaillesonitsclosingdaylastJuneandwouldhavehatedtomissit.Myexpectationswereveryhigh,andyetIcouldnothelpbeingsomewhatdisappointed,notbythequalityoftheobjectsondisplay,whichweremagnificent,butbytheirscarcity.Ishouldhaveknownbetter,ofcourse:howmany18thcenturycourtcostumescouldhavesurvivedtillthe21stcentury?Interestingly,thefewthatdidhavebeenpreservedintheroyalcollectionsofnorthernEurope,forinstancethecoronationgown(below)ofQueenSofiaMagdelenaofSweden.ItwasmadeinParisofsilvercloth,andconsists,likeallFrenchcourtgowns,inthreeseparatepieces:bodice,skirtandtrain.Indeedinthecourseofthe18thcenturyallEuropeancourtshadadoptedtheVersaillescourtcostume.Notethewidthofthepanniers:3meters(12feet!)Thedepthisnomorethan2feet,whichgivesthegowntheshapeofaveryelongatedoval.Thebackviewofthesamegowngivesanideaofthelengthofthetrain:Theshapeofthe18thcenturycourtcostume,formenandwomen,originatedatVersaillesduringthelastdecadesofthereignofLouisXIV,andremainedunchangeduntiltheRevolution.Itdoesnotmeanthatcourtattirewasimmunetothedictatesoffashion:fabrics,colors,ribbonsandotherdecorativeelementsvariedovertime.Butthecutofthegarmentswasimmutable.Courtcostumewashighlycodified.WearingacourtgownwasaprivilegereservedfortheQueen,theprincessesoftheroyalbloodand“presented”ladies.IhavewrittenapriorpostonthepreparationsofdressingforCourt.Wearingacourtgownwasmandatoryforallladiesentitledtoit,evenfortheQueenherself,oneveryformaloccasion.Theonlyacceptableexcusewasanadvancedpregnancy,obviouslyincompatiblewiththeclose-fittingshapeofthebodiceandtheunderlyinggrandcorps(aspecialcorset)thatcoveredtheentireabdomen.Marie-AntoinetteonceapologizedtotheVenetianambassador,whohadcometoVersaillestopresenthislettersofaccreditation,fornotwearingacourtgownonaccountofherpregnancy.Ifshehadnotdoneso,herwearing“regular”clothesonsuchanoccasionwouldhavebeenconstruedasagraveslig
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